The future of seafood is being developed with the help of freshwater fish, 600 miles from the nearest ocean in Bozeman, Montana.

In a capacious warehouse northeast of downtown Bozeman, a lanky scientist named Rick Barrows leans over a blue tank teeming with rainbow trout. The fish thrash expectantly at the arrival of human visitors, and Barrows smiles behind his scrub-brush mustache.

"You go to the poultry nutrition conference, and there are 4,000 people there," he says wryly. "You go to the U.S. fish nutrition conference, and there are 30."

By Ben Goldfarb

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